Wiring a 36v Trolling Motor

[mmalinao]

Hey guys,

I know there have been other inquiries re: this subject, but I hae yet to find an answer to my specific issue.

I have a 95 Skeeter 190ZX that is set up for a 24V system. I have 3 6guage (2 Hot, 1 Grnd) going to the front (into what looks like a block, that the trolling motor is set up with) trolling motor from the back. The back is set up like this, onboard charger (2 bank) into the back panel (with 30Amp circuits X2) then to the batteries and then to the front.

This may sound confusing, sorry for that.

What is the best way to convert this to a 36V system? I know I could run the batteries in series and only use one of the hot wires that go up to the front, but I'm worried that because there are 2 Hot wires going up there now that if I changed it and only used 1 6 guage wire that it would over heat.

Should I do as I mentioned and only run one set of wires after putting the batteries in series?

Should I run another Hot wire up front and try and find a block that will go from 3 Hot wires to 1 out to the trolling motor?

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Mike

[Smitty]

http://www.boatpartstore.com/trollwire.asp

Smitty

[Jim PAyne]

If the boat already has 6awg wire then just use two of them and jumper at the batteries and make sure you use a 6amp breaker and you will be fine.

[mmalinao]

Thanks for getting back and I have seen this diagram, but my issue is at the back panel.

From the trolling motor battery the cables go to the back panel, there are 2 30Amp circuit brakers, which I assume are for each battery. and then from there cables go up to the front.

I don't think I can just add another battery in series and expect it to work or can I?

-Mike

[Oldschool]

Smitty's wire diagrams are correct. You maybe confusing your cranking battery wiring or trying to combine the cranking battery with the trolling motor battery circuit. Don't use the cranking battery in the trolling motor circuit, keep it separate to start the engine and operate the 12V electronics.
You need 3 deep cycle 12V marine batteries in series to run the 36V trolling motor, see the 36V wiring diagram. The terminal block up front should have 2 large posts for both the positive and negative 4 to 6 gage trolling motor power circuit. The trolling motor wires hook up to those terminals. The cranking battery should have wiring going up front to operate the sonar unit and nav lighting.
The battery wiring should have 40 to 50 amp circuit breakers located near the batteries. The cranking battery should have a switchable circuit breaker.
Tom

[mmalinao]

Tom,

I understand the diagram is correct and this would be very simple if you ran this set up from scratch without existing wires.

The cranking battery is completely seperate.

My concerns lie with the back panel. I'm hoping there is a way I can use the existing set up as I mentioned and just add another battery in series as in the diagram. I'm sure typing this out is confusing so is there anyone you all would recommend that works on electrical that I could speak with (boat shops)?

Thanks,

Mike

[Oldschool]

Ohm's law; R=E/I http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/page2.asp
If you increase the voltage by 1/3 you increase the resistance by 1/3;
24V @ 15 amps = 1.6 ohm's, 36V @ 15 amps = 2.4 ohm's.
Your question is; will the existing length of 6 ga wire handle 36VDC at full amp draw of your trolling motor without over heating?
I would use new 4 ga wire.
Tom

[DeltaDan]

My concerns lie with the back panel. I'm hoping there is a way I can use the existing set up as I mentioned and just add another battery in series as in the diagram. I'm sure typing this out is confusing so is there anyone you all would recommend that works on electrical that I could speak with (boat shops)?

Thanks,

Mike

Easy Peasy ..... You use your same buss bar/breakers - like this ....





Also with your TM there will be two more inline breakers on the Pos lead like this. (for sure on the MG - I don't know if they are included on the MK's )

Port side battery to my Starrboard battery -



Starboard battery Lead with another breaker to the other Port side battery .... Then that battery to the buss bars.




Hope that helps. You can also call Gene @ The Hook and he can answer any questions you may have @ 925-625-2441

[mmalinao]

DeltaDan,

This is what I was looking for, thank you! I'll call Gene if I run into any issues!

After looking at this set up, I know the one in my boat is different and I might have to do some re-wiring. Do you have switch hooked up with this set up as well to disconnect the current so you can charge the batteries (12/off/36 or something like this)?

-Mike

[DeltaDan]

No- I have a 3 Bank charger for the TM Batteries. And once in a great while (4-6 months) I will put a portable battery charger on the cranking battery @ 2 amp's trickle.... But it always say's it is fully charged at plug-in.

The only on/off switch is on the MG TM foot bracket itself.

I know I have 6 GA wire to the front - I cant remember if it is wired 2 wired on the front prong or 3 wires with one being a Neg. I can take it appart and look tommorow for you.

[Phil]

No- I have a 3 Bank charger for the TM Batteries. And once in a great while (4-6 months) I will put a portable battery charger on the cranking battery @ 2 amp's trickle.... But it always say's it is fully charged at plug-in.

The only on/off switch is on the MG TM foot bracket itself.

I know I have 6 GA wire to the front - I cant remember if it is wired 2 wired on the front prong or 3 wires with one being a Neg. I can take it appart and look tommorow for you.

DAN; IF YOU HAVN'T CHANGED IT FROM ME, ITS TWO WIRE AT THE PLUS, ONE POS, ONE NEG.