Anyone have any good tips on Split Shotting? Size hook, split and worm also what Technique to use. I went fishing on Monday over the Holliday and ahad a rough day putting fish in the boat. But saw some guys split shotting in about 35ft of water and they were tearing them up. I then tried Jigs and Carolina rigged Roboworms and still I caught nothing. I could see fish in the finder but no bites.
Thank you for any help you could give!
split shotting
Re: split shotting
For me, (and i learned from the best!) i use 6lb maxima green only, size 2 or 3 shot, a very small hook (size 2). The key is fishing slowwww and detecting the soft bite. The bait and size of all the above may vary depending on the lake. At DV and MV, i use 1/0 hook and 6-8 inch worms at Castaic i used 2-3 inch fluttercraft and Merlo worms. I only use 6lb Maxima period! There are alot of good lines but the only light line that has held up to many teen fish in heavy structure is Maxima!! Again, fish slowwwwwww! If its windy throw behind the boat and drag upwind to slow yourself down. There might be better techniques at different times but if you need to put fish in the boat this is perfect! A great lake to practice this on is Perris you will own em on the splitshot.
Shawn
Shawn
www.Finesseangler.com
Pictures are worth a thousand words!
Pictures are worth a thousand words!
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Kelly Ripa
- Posts: 2266
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 6:39 am
- Location: Ojai
Re: split shotting
Good question. I like to use as small as I can get away with bullet sinker and a 8 mm bead . I peg the bead with a (square round style purchased anywhere) toothpick. This is somewhat a carolina rig and it allows me to make a little noise while I'm fishing. I use small 4 inch butler paddle tail type worms and reapers that I put a #2 light wire hook rigged weedless. I often will use heavier line to peg the worm on the hook. I push the mono perpindicular through the worm into the eye and out the otherside and clip it off. I usually drag this rig and leave it motionless for a while shake and repeat. As with the carolina when I feel something with my weight I must remember that my worm is behind what I'm feeling so in the next drag or two my worm will be in the zone. If I'm having alot of hang ups I will go to the mojo weight system as this tends to allow you to pull through the worst of it. I have never liked the idea of actually crimping a sinker onto my line and have never had a problem with my toothpick system. On a hot sunny day reach over and feel how hot that splitshot is and think about what it might be doing to your line. I liked to use the Tru-turn hook because it was very light and allowed the worm to float, swim, and dart better. I use a long leader....sometimes as much as 6 feet but average around 3-4 feet. Here is a secret that not many realize. If you are using a handpoured worm they are 3/4 round with a flat on top. NEVER rig the worm so that the flat is on the bottom. it must always be on top. This allows the worm to rock from side to side....If the flat is on bottom the worm is less hydodynamic ( is that a word 
) and it will spin causing line twist and an unnatural presentation. To get away from the pegging the worm you can use the new Tru-turn rebarb to keep the bait straight as you pull it along through the stuff on the bottom it is the nature of this technique to pull the worm into a blob on the hook. If you swing and miss and the worm isn't pegged your going to have the worm in a ball on the hook and you won't be fishing until you get it back in and straighten out the worm. I use ( Maxima ) good six pound test and a 6 1/2 foot to 7 foot light spinning rod. When fighting a fish I will often back reel rather than use my reels drag and have caught fish up to ten pounds with this method good luck on your next trip. This is how I do it Let's hear from the rest of the gallery 
Rip
) and it will spin causing line twist and an unnatural presentation. To get away from the pegging the worm you can use the new Tru-turn rebarb to keep the bait straight as you pull it along through the stuff on the bottom it is the nature of this technique to pull the worm into a blob on the hook. If you swing and miss and the worm isn't pegged your going to have the worm in a ball on the hook and you won't be fishing until you get it back in and straighten out the worm. I use ( Maxima ) good six pound test and a 6 1/2 foot to 7 foot light spinning rod. When fighting a fish I will often back reel rather than use my reels drag and have caught fish up to ten pounds with this method good luck on your next trip. This is how I do it Let's hear from the rest of the gallery Rip
Remember ...What the Dormouse said...Feed your head!
Re: split shotting (very long)
Here is an outstanding article on splitshotting written by Terry Battisti a while back:
Split-shotting has been around the fishing scene in one form or another since the inception of putting a worm on a hook. But, it wasn't really popularized until the early 80's as a viable means for presenting a plastic worm. The technique was formally developed by a Southern California angler by the name of Dick Trask. He developed the technique in order compete in local team events on the heavily pressured lakes of So. Cal. His method worked so well that it enabled him to be "the" major threat on the water at all times. He won or placed in almost every event he fished until his secret technique came to light. Since then, the Split-Shotting Technique has become a mainstay on the tournament circuits in the West and a few other states.
The Basic Split-Shot Rig
The basic set-up used in split shotting is this. Spinning rods in the 6-7' range are the most popular. Actions range from ultra light to medium. The reel needs to have a very smooth drag in order to decrease the chance of breaking the light line generally used in the method. Because this is a finesse technique, light lines, usually 6-8lb test, are the mainstay. And, most serious Split-Shotters prefer green colored line. They feel that the green lines are less apt to be seen by the fish in the highly pressured lakes they fish.
Once you have the basic equipment mentioned above, it's time to start thinking about the rig itself. The basic rig is very simple. All it requires is a worm hook and a split shot. Hook size is dependant on the size worm being fished. And, there are a few different styles of hook that are used. The basic hook style utilized in this technique is a fine wire hook known as an Aberdeen. This hook is used most often when fishing very small worms in order to allow the bait to float better. The problem with this style hook is that there are generally no keeper barbs on it and the worm has a tendency to fall down the hook. But, in situations where a small worm is required, it is the best hook to use.
Another hook style used is a Kahle hook. This hook is used when head hooking a plastic bait. This hook works well in situations where you are not fishing areas that have a lot of brush because the hook point is exposed. This hook allows the bait to have a lot of action due to the fact that the hook is only in the head of the worm. Not the body. One benefit of using this hook is that it is very difficult for a fish to spit out once hooked. The hook is very much like a circle hook many of you have been reading about in the recent past.
Beyond the hook mentioned above, you can use just about any other worm hook available to split shot. But, just remember to use a hook that will not make the bait sink too fast. Personally, I prefer the Gamakatsu EWG hooks for most of my split shotting. It is a relatively fine wire hook that has a good bite and fish hooking capability.
As was stated earlier, the standard weight for the rig is the Split-Shot. Hence the name! Anyway, the size of the split shot used depends mainly on the water depth you are fishing and the wind speed. The standard size split shot used are sizes 4-2. But, in very shallow water situations, a size 7 can work very well. Also, when fishing deep water I've used split shot up to 3/8 of an ounce. One thing to remember though is use only enough weight to allow you to feel the bottom!
The distance you place the split shot from the hook is dependent on the activity of the fish. During extremely difficult fishing conditions, the length of the leader should be roughly 4-6 feet. The longer leader allows the bait to move more freely eliciting more strikes. When the fishing is not as tough, I generally place the split shot anywhere from 2 to 4 feet from the hook. This allows you to detect the bite quicker.
Fishing the Split-Shot Rig
Fishing the split-shot rig is very simple. It can be fished in water as shallow as 1' to water as deep as 90'. All you do is cast the rig out, let it sink to the bottom, and slowly drag it back to the boat. When working the bait back, some people like to use the reel to work the bait. Others prefer to drag it with the rod. In any event, the best way to hold the rod while working the bait is to hold it at a 90 degree angle to the line. This will give you better sensitivity during the retrieve.
Another way to work the bait occurs during very windy days. In most worm fishing techniques, it is difficult to feel your bait during windy conditions. But, the split shot rig can be easy if you use the wind to your advantage. All you need to do is cast your bait into the wind, let it sink to the bottom, and work the rig by allowing the wind to slowly move the boat. You do not need to reel. By using your trolling motor, you can control the speed of your drift and thus, the speed of your lure.
Because the split-shot rig has a weight clamped between you and the worm, the bites you get will not feel like a standard worm bite generally. In general, all a bite feels like with this rig is a heavy feeling on your rod. Some people call this the "rubber band" feeling. When you feel something like this, stop moving the bait, figure out if it is a snag, and set the hook! The hookset used predominantly for the rig is a fast steady sweeping of the rod.
Even though this rig was developed for "tough" fishing conditions, it can be fished at any time. Water temperatures and clarity do not affect the technique at all. Time of year is also of no concern. In essence, it is a method that works under all conditions and in all types of water. Including rivers.
Baits to use with the Split-Shot Rig
Although the rig was initially developed for use on heavily pressured lakes with small (3-4" baits) finesse plastics, any size bait can be used. In California, the common baits are generally 3-5" long. But, many people are using 6" and longer baits too. Some may ask, why not use a Carolina Rig for the bigger baits? Well, that is an option but for the subtlest presentation, the split shot rig works the best. It has a minimum of hardware associated with it and you can use a very light split shot for extremely shallow water fishing.
The technique is not limited to worms either. Many small jerk baits work well while split shotting as do grubs and twin tailed trailers. All you need to do is experiment with new baits to find out what works best for you in a given situation.
As for colors, this is entirely up to you. Any color can be fished effectively with this technique. But, the smoke and natural colors seem to work best in really clear waters. Choose a bait that mimics the color of the forage found in your area and go with it!
Other Considerations about the Split Shot Rig
Many anglers have been using the Mojo Sinkers with their split shot rigs. This sinker resembles a cylinder with rounded off ends. The sinker has a hole drilled through it to run your line through. These sinkers are generally used for light Carolina Rigs. But, they are very good to use when split shotting rocky areas as they do not hang up as much as a standard split shot. The way you rig this sinker is as follows. First, go to the store and get some Flossing Loops used for flossing your teeth. They are made by GUM and are blue in color. You can get a pack of 25 for around $2. Now, take the line and run it through the Mojo Sinker. Then, tie your hook on. Now, taking cut a few strands of living rubber from a jig (you may need 2-5 strands of rubber). Take the flossing loop and put it through the hole in the sinker. Then, take your rubber strands, put them trough the loop and pull the loop back through the sinker. The rubber strands will get wedged in the sinker and keep it from moving on the line. Not only does this method work for this application, it works great for any pegging situation. And, it doesn't harm the line! now you have a rig that'll come through the rocks easier.
Well, I hope this explanation of split shotting help you boat more bass. It is a great technique to use during those tough times! Try it, I know it will add fish to your livewells!
Split-shotting has been around the fishing scene in one form or another since the inception of putting a worm on a hook. But, it wasn't really popularized until the early 80's as a viable means for presenting a plastic worm. The technique was formally developed by a Southern California angler by the name of Dick Trask. He developed the technique in order compete in local team events on the heavily pressured lakes of So. Cal. His method worked so well that it enabled him to be "the" major threat on the water at all times. He won or placed in almost every event he fished until his secret technique came to light. Since then, the Split-Shotting Technique has become a mainstay on the tournament circuits in the West and a few other states.
The Basic Split-Shot Rig
The basic set-up used in split shotting is this. Spinning rods in the 6-7' range are the most popular. Actions range from ultra light to medium. The reel needs to have a very smooth drag in order to decrease the chance of breaking the light line generally used in the method. Because this is a finesse technique, light lines, usually 6-8lb test, are the mainstay. And, most serious Split-Shotters prefer green colored line. They feel that the green lines are less apt to be seen by the fish in the highly pressured lakes they fish.
Once you have the basic equipment mentioned above, it's time to start thinking about the rig itself. The basic rig is very simple. All it requires is a worm hook and a split shot. Hook size is dependant on the size worm being fished. And, there are a few different styles of hook that are used. The basic hook style utilized in this technique is a fine wire hook known as an Aberdeen. This hook is used most often when fishing very small worms in order to allow the bait to float better. The problem with this style hook is that there are generally no keeper barbs on it and the worm has a tendency to fall down the hook. But, in situations where a small worm is required, it is the best hook to use.
Another hook style used is a Kahle hook. This hook is used when head hooking a plastic bait. This hook works well in situations where you are not fishing areas that have a lot of brush because the hook point is exposed. This hook allows the bait to have a lot of action due to the fact that the hook is only in the head of the worm. Not the body. One benefit of using this hook is that it is very difficult for a fish to spit out once hooked. The hook is very much like a circle hook many of you have been reading about in the recent past.
Beyond the hook mentioned above, you can use just about any other worm hook available to split shot. But, just remember to use a hook that will not make the bait sink too fast. Personally, I prefer the Gamakatsu EWG hooks for most of my split shotting. It is a relatively fine wire hook that has a good bite and fish hooking capability.
As was stated earlier, the standard weight for the rig is the Split-Shot. Hence the name! Anyway, the size of the split shot used depends mainly on the water depth you are fishing and the wind speed. The standard size split shot used are sizes 4-2. But, in very shallow water situations, a size 7 can work very well. Also, when fishing deep water I've used split shot up to 3/8 of an ounce. One thing to remember though is use only enough weight to allow you to feel the bottom!
The distance you place the split shot from the hook is dependent on the activity of the fish. During extremely difficult fishing conditions, the length of the leader should be roughly 4-6 feet. The longer leader allows the bait to move more freely eliciting more strikes. When the fishing is not as tough, I generally place the split shot anywhere from 2 to 4 feet from the hook. This allows you to detect the bite quicker.
Fishing the Split-Shot Rig
Fishing the split-shot rig is very simple. It can be fished in water as shallow as 1' to water as deep as 90'. All you do is cast the rig out, let it sink to the bottom, and slowly drag it back to the boat. When working the bait back, some people like to use the reel to work the bait. Others prefer to drag it with the rod. In any event, the best way to hold the rod while working the bait is to hold it at a 90 degree angle to the line. This will give you better sensitivity during the retrieve.
Another way to work the bait occurs during very windy days. In most worm fishing techniques, it is difficult to feel your bait during windy conditions. But, the split shot rig can be easy if you use the wind to your advantage. All you need to do is cast your bait into the wind, let it sink to the bottom, and work the rig by allowing the wind to slowly move the boat. You do not need to reel. By using your trolling motor, you can control the speed of your drift and thus, the speed of your lure.
Because the split-shot rig has a weight clamped between you and the worm, the bites you get will not feel like a standard worm bite generally. In general, all a bite feels like with this rig is a heavy feeling on your rod. Some people call this the "rubber band" feeling. When you feel something like this, stop moving the bait, figure out if it is a snag, and set the hook! The hookset used predominantly for the rig is a fast steady sweeping of the rod.
Even though this rig was developed for "tough" fishing conditions, it can be fished at any time. Water temperatures and clarity do not affect the technique at all. Time of year is also of no concern. In essence, it is a method that works under all conditions and in all types of water. Including rivers.
Baits to use with the Split-Shot Rig
Although the rig was initially developed for use on heavily pressured lakes with small (3-4" baits) finesse plastics, any size bait can be used. In California, the common baits are generally 3-5" long. But, many people are using 6" and longer baits too. Some may ask, why not use a Carolina Rig for the bigger baits? Well, that is an option but for the subtlest presentation, the split shot rig works the best. It has a minimum of hardware associated with it and you can use a very light split shot for extremely shallow water fishing.
The technique is not limited to worms either. Many small jerk baits work well while split shotting as do grubs and twin tailed trailers. All you need to do is experiment with new baits to find out what works best for you in a given situation.
As for colors, this is entirely up to you. Any color can be fished effectively with this technique. But, the smoke and natural colors seem to work best in really clear waters. Choose a bait that mimics the color of the forage found in your area and go with it!
Other Considerations about the Split Shot Rig
Many anglers have been using the Mojo Sinkers with their split shot rigs. This sinker resembles a cylinder with rounded off ends. The sinker has a hole drilled through it to run your line through. These sinkers are generally used for light Carolina Rigs. But, they are very good to use when split shotting rocky areas as they do not hang up as much as a standard split shot. The way you rig this sinker is as follows. First, go to the store and get some Flossing Loops used for flossing your teeth. They are made by GUM and are blue in color. You can get a pack of 25 for around $2. Now, take the line and run it through the Mojo Sinker. Then, tie your hook on. Now, taking cut a few strands of living rubber from a jig (you may need 2-5 strands of rubber). Take the flossing loop and put it through the hole in the sinker. Then, take your rubber strands, put them trough the loop and pull the loop back through the sinker. The rubber strands will get wedged in the sinker and keep it from moving on the line. Not only does this method work for this application, it works great for any pegging situation. And, it doesn't harm the line! now you have a rig that'll come through the rocks easier.
Well, I hope this explanation of split shotting help you boat more bass. It is a great technique to use during those tough times! Try it, I know it will add fish to your livewells!
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Gee Gee Baits
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 10:04 am
- Location: Seal Beach
Re: split shotting
So far all of these replies are dead on when it comes to split shotting. My wife is an expert at it. She keeps it simple and the rewards are great! She uses a 6.5 foot Shimano Crucial rod meduim action with a Shimano spinning reel spooled with 6lb. Maxima green line, a #4 or #2 Owner J hook and a Watermelon/Pepper/Red Flake "ALIEN" worm. Cast it out and retreive at a very slow pace. Did I say very slow?
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Gee Gee Baits
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 10:04 am
- Location: Seal Beach
Re: split shotting
So far all of these replies are dead on when it comes to split shotting. My wife is an expert at it. She keeps it simple and the rewards are great! She uses a 6.5 foot Shimano Crucial rod meduim action with a Shimano spinning reel spooled with 6lb. Maxima green line, a #4 or #2 Owner J hook and a Watermelon/Pepper/Red Flake "ALIEN" worm. Cast it out and retreive at a very slow pace. Did I say very slow?
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Dynastyworms
- Posts: 588
- Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:46 pm
- Location: The Great State of Arizona
Re: split shotting
shawn and rip dead on! rip talks about the rigging the worm to have a flat top(slugo style) I thought i was the only one that did that.....
z
z
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mark poulson
- Posts: 10554
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 4:16 am
- Location: Antioch, CA
Re: split shotting
I also rig with a slip sinker and bead. I peg the bead with a rubber nail, so I can adjust the leader without scaring the line.
A straight shank hook is the way to go, as it gives the best hookset.
Typically, the bite feels like a tick, tick. Pause, reel down and feel if the fish is there, and then swing. You should use a rod that's soft enough not to break the 6lb on the hookset.
With a slip sinker and bead, many times the bait will fall slower than the sinker, and that is deadly in clear water.
A straight shank hook is the way to go, as it gives the best hookset.
Typically, the bite feels like a tick, tick. Pause, reel down and feel if the fish is there, and then swing. You should use a rod that's soft enough not to break the 6lb on the hookset.
With a slip sinker and bead, many times the bait will fall slower than the sinker, and that is deadly in clear water.
Attitude plus effort equal success
CLEAN AND DRY
CLEAN AND DRY
Re: split shotting
I can recommend the video "Split Shotting with Dick Trask" from bazz clazz videos.
You will literally sit at the feet of the master, Dick Trask as he explains the what, where, when, and how of what he does, Or more correctly did. We lost Dick a few years back, but as the originator of split shotting he had no peer. There is no better video on the technique. Was filmed up on Lake Isabella.
You can get them at my web site,
http://www.bassitudes.com/SearchResult. ... ords=Trask
You will literally sit at the feet of the master, Dick Trask as he explains the what, where, when, and how of what he does, Or more correctly did. We lost Dick a few years back, but as the originator of split shotting he had no peer. There is no better video on the technique. Was filmed up on Lake Isabella.
You can get them at my web site,
http://www.bassitudes.com/SearchResult. ... ords=Trask
DW
Host Bazz Clazz Videos
http://www.bazzclazz.com
All other things being equal, I'd rather be catchin' than fishin'
Host Bazz Clazz Videos
http://www.bazzclazz.com
All other things being equal, I'd rather be catchin' than fishin'
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Kelly Ripa
- Posts: 2266
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 6:39 am
- Location: Ojai
Re: split shotting
The reason I like using a bullet sinker was because I felt it was a smoother transition from the smaller diameter to the bigger diameter and the abrupt diameter change of something round was less forgiving. It seemed to me that I had to shake out more rigs with just a splitshot. Because I sometimes get lazy when fishing this rig if it turned out that I needed more weight I could put on a small splitshot and keep fishing prior to breaking down and retying the whole rig with a bigger weight. It's funny but sometimes I will fish the splitshot rig as it can outfish the dropshot on occassion. It has happened a few times that the shakey head out fished the dropshot and the splitshot sometimes was my answer....green fish are funny that way sometimes you know 
.
Rip
.Rip
Remember ...What the Dormouse said...Feed your head!
Re: split shotting
I want to thank everyone for the info and support on Westernbass.com! I took this info and learned a new way of fishing, it was a great experiance and easier then I could have emagined. I used a bullet sinker, glass bead, small split shot, ewg light wire hook and natural color Robo worms. I caught four fish in about 20 min.
Thank You!
Thank You!
-
Kelly Ripa
- Posts: 2266
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 6:39 am
- Location: Ojai
Some more information...
It seems that I might have caused some confusion in my original answer as I have gotten a few PM's regaurding how this is tied up. I hope this helps. Thread on a worm weight( I use brass sinkers) ...then the glass bead. Tie on the hook and put on your worm....this is a standard brass and glass doodling rig...now instead of fishing it like that you run the sinker and bead up 3-4 feet from the worm and peg only the glass bead from the worm side. The sinker slides freely....No swivel! The piece of 30 pound or so is a short piece of line that you stick through the worm into the eye of the hook and out again (90 degree perpindicular to the worm ) trim this line so that it isn't sticking out on either side but rather is flush with the worm. I tend to put more worm on the hook when you first go through so you can have the eye inside of the worm when you turn it around and rig it weedless. You can also use a toothpick to do this but the thicker mono is more resiliant and will allow for the worm to pull down for the hook to penatrate through your worm and into the fish's lip. Now you can drag the rig and the weight and bead clack together. Brass gives a sharper clack than lead. Crawfish/shrimp etc. emit clicking noises and this is meant to get some attention in the direction of the rig. You need to really drag this rig slowly shake and dead stick the worm. Did I leave anything out? I hope this clarifies the rig more for you that had questions. 
Rip
Rip
Remember ...What the Dormouse said...Feed your head!
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