Drop shot line twist

jimmyG · Post by **jimmyG** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:20 am

I know this question has been asked and answered probably a couple hundred times on this forum, but I'm unable to find it, so here we go again. What do youi guys do to reduce or eliminate line twist on your drop shot rig?

If you use a small swivel, how long of a leader do you use? Is there one of the drop shot swivel weight that is better than another? Does tying a leader to braid line eliminate the twist in the line or does the braid also twist? Line is getting to expensive to replace all the time, is there a way to get the twist out of the line?

Thanks for your input and sharing your experience.

Jeff Jewell · Post by **Jeff Jewell** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:28 am

If your drop shotting in lakes using light line and a spinning reel, simply closing your bail by hand will eliminate alot of your line twist

Jim V. · Post by **Jim V.** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:00 pm

Wacky rigging the worm will eliminate a lot of the twist. Cutting off the hook & sinker then letting out line & dragging behind the boat gets your line straight again, then you have to re-tie. There are hooks now made with a swivel built in, but I haven't tried them.

I've been using 10-15# braid with a 4. 6 or 8# floro leader & there is almost no twist. If it does, just cut off some or all of the leader & re-tie. You have to practice the connection knot - there are plenty of videos on YouTube. There are no loops peeling off the reel like you might have with mono or floro. I was having a hard time seeing the green braid & tried yellow. A lot easier to see & I haven't noticed any fewer bites. The braid with the floro is extremely sensitive.

Oldschool · Post by **Oldschool** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:38 pm

Flipping the spinning reel bail prevents loops, not line twist. Line twist when drop shotting or split shotting is caused by the worm spinning when you retrieve it. The new drop shot hooks with built in swivel work good and so does wacky hooking the worm. Check you worm so it is straight and doesn't spin pulled in the water next to the boat before casting, this will help.
Braid helps, but 2 knots are needed and that can be a big problem, same with adding a swivel inline, you have 3 knots!
Dragging the twisted line, let out about 50 yards at idle speed for a few minutes, works with nothing tied on the line. Also use a good line dressing like TangleFree, helps a lot with FC line.
Tom

Tin Can · Post by **Tin Can** » Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:42 am

Try the VMC Spinshot hooks.

If you don't want to add extra knots, bigger spools seem to help and also instead of burning the DS back to the boat when you're done with a cast, just reel it in a little slower. Reeling the DS back to you fast is what causes most of the line twist. Or, just use a casting reel and don't worry about it again.

griz01 · Post by **griz01** » Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:19 pm

Gamakatsu has a new dropshot hook and swivel. A little larger swivel than others. Only has one knot tied to the top. I used it in my last club tourney, and it worked great.

fishin45 · Post by **fishin45** » Tue Jan 15, 2013 1:39 am

All of these tips are great but the most effective is dragging the line behind the boat and line treatment. I also use a swivel but be warned it is rough on eyes when you forget about it. I would also suggest trying to back reel rather than fight the fish with the drag, more often than not you will be using really light line and a good bit of the line twisting comes from reeling while the drag is slipping. With only about 4 lbs of drag it is hard for anybody not to get line twist while fighting fish on the drag.

Just my 2 cents I hope some of it helps

DannyMiller · Post by **DannyMiller** » Tue Jan 15, 2013 9:45 am

Hey Jimmy
Line twists are a strong reason many will not drop shot. I was included in that group and was never fond of that form of fishing because of it till I figured out how to eliminate it. Basic set up for the Bully shot is 4-6 Lb test line. Slide a size 2 to 4 bobber stop on. Place your dropshot hook on. I like a small leach here. Slide another bobber stop on. Tie a hook on the end of the line. Nose hook a small 4" sinko on that hook. Add a screw in cone sinker to the large end of the sinko after you cut the small tube where it exits the weight. I use a razor blade. You can use that sinko over and over without tearing it. Slide the stops together only enough to allow the hook to spin freely. Sometimes they eat the sinko, sometimes the upper bait. I fish the upper bait very close to the bottom hook in winter.
This set up has caught bass and other species up to 7 lbs in water depths to 90'. A few tips are, only 1 knot. 2-4 Lb Bobber stops. A bullet style sinker, not a ball type that spins. Nose hook each bait. Dont reel up so fast. Watch that graph, they are better at finding fish than you or I. When it shows the fish drop the cone shaped sinker right on him. Dead stick. Just reel up,easy hookup. Danny

Delaney · Post by **Delaney** » Tue Jan 15, 2013 11:51 am

Comment above about drag being biggest problem with line twist is dead on. I would also add that you don't have to reel against the drag to cause twist. Just the fact that the line is going off against the drag is causing one line twist for every rotation of the spool.

elfish16 · Post by **elfish16** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 1:44 pm

I switched over to braid to a floro leader and it's money. Is there another knot involved sure, but if you know how to tie properly and test it before using it you will be fine. I have yet to lose a fish due to the connector knot breaking.

mark poulson · Post by **mark poulson** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 6:16 pm

elfish16 wrote:I switched over to braid to a floro leader and it's money. Is there another knot involved sure, but if you know how to tie properly and test it before using it you will be fine. I have yet to lose a fish due to the connector knot breaking.

X2

Shifa33 · Post by **Shifa33** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 11:37 pm

I have had some problems with different braids when doing braid to floro. I have found that round braid is has less friction when tying the two knots together which usually holds up better. Has anyone else had these issues? That being said, I prefer using braid on spinning reels over mono/floro

Jeff C. · Post by **Jeff C.** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 1:03 pm

I've tried just about everything and what I'm currently doing is 1. using a tiny swivel about 2 ft above the hook (longer and it's too hard to cast), and 2. using plain mono instead of flouro. Flouro is just way too stiff which makes any line twist so much more problematic. Of course braid would also fix this issue but I don't like the visibility of braid or the irritating noise it makes through the guides. Also, as others have said, cutting off the rig and dragging all the line behind the boat for a few seconds will take out the twist once it gets too bad.

Oldschool · Post by **Oldschool** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 5:00 pm

The Spro size 10 swivel is very small and 35 lb strength and works good for this application.
However 3 knots are needed and under fishing conditions it's not easy to tie 3 good knots.
All spinning reels work the same; fixed spool with a bail that wraps the line onto the spool. Each revolution puts 1 twist on the line IF the end is fixed and can't turn. Larger spool diameter the bail wraps more line on with each turn, still 1 twist, but fewer twist per yard of line. When you retrieve any lure that is fixed or fighting bass the line twist with each turn of the reel handle. The more memory the line has, the more problems the twisting causes.
Bait casting reels eliminate line twist caused by the retrieving line, spinning lures will still twist the line on any reel.
Your choices are; change to a bait caster, use a spinning reel with larger spool, use good line dressing, use a inline swivel, manage the line twist or use braid with a leader.
Good luck.
Tom

Fish Trap · Post by **Fish Trap** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 6:12 pm

What seems to have worked well for me is Braid. I use 10lb braid, 4lb diameter power pro. Then it is either 5# maxima or 6# flouro leader. No swivels, no fancy stuff just a regular drop shot weight. I don't know why people make it so hard but it is really simple. Use the uni knot to make the connection, and for the last 4 years of fishing I have only had it break a couple of times. I have also had the same spool of 5 and 6# leader for the last 4 years as well. Twists are at a minimum and if it becomes a problem let out some line and drive around for a bit then wind it back on as said above. The secret in tying the knot is to wrap the braid about 5 to 6 times and the mono or flouro about 3 to 5. I like one more wrap with the 5# than the 6. Wet and tighten the knots a little bit before sliding together. Hold the tag ends of each line when tightening it all up then once it is close together you can pull it tight and test it. This knot is bullet proof once you learn how to tie it. Sometimes the knot will break but if it does it will break when you test it right away, if it holds it usually never breaks. I use about a 8 to 15 foot leader depending if I am fishing a darter head or a DS, and will retie my baits as needed. That way you usually do not have to retie the uni for a day of fishing. Once you learn how to tie it you will love it. When the fish bites at 50 feet and you have a 10 foot leader it feels like the fish is 10 feet away. Very effective way to fish.

Lugnut · Post by **Lugnut** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 7:37 am

mark poulson wrote:
elfish16 wrote:I switched over to braid to a floro leader and it's money. Is there another knot involved sure, but if you know how to tie properly and test it before using it you will be fine. I have yet to lose a fish due to the connector knot breaking.
X2

I would have to agree with these folks......I still use mono but floro is most common I think. I switched a couple years ago and haven't looked back.......only had my knot break once and it was all on me, not the knot

dwise · Post by **dwise** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 10:18 am

Since switching to a braid to flouro leader combination, I have not had any issues with line twist. I use a double uni knot to tie the two together. The joining knot should end up somewhere between the reel and your first line guide. I use about a 7' leader, so there is enough to retie if I should get hung up.

Zak Elrite · Post by **Zak Elrite** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 7:55 pm

I use braid-flouro combo on most(not all) of my spinning set-ups(some situations call for straight flouro and even still some for mono). I will spool up with similar diameters of each, though the braid will be much stronger than the flouro obviously(15lb braid to 6-8lb flouro). Another difference is I like to run a good "cast length" of flouro, not just 10 feet or so. I've never had it break on a fish and VERY seldom on a snag while pulling out. You may still end up with some twist but it can be strung out and fixed or cut 7-10 feet off of it every outing or two. You get great sensitivity with the braid still being in the water and having a good 30-50 yards of flouro to the bait. Tie with a double-uni knot, pull slowly and wet it, and you'll be golden. Good luck!

froteur · Post by **froteur** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 6:47 pm

i've been using the braid/fluoro combo for several years on MOST of my spinning combos. most people don't realize but braid DOES twist. it's just that it is so limp, you don't get the line twist issues that you do with mono and fluoro.

edit: oh yeah. i've been using the modified albright, or alberto, knot. i like it better than the uni-uni. i also spool on 20-30 feet of fluoro, instead of a short leader. that insures that the knot is already on my reel when i get the fish near the boat. so, if the fish makes a last second run, it won't be stressing the knot.