I'm a novice when it comes to jigging spoons. I've only done it a few times. Never caught a bass only a couple of crappie. I've read up on several articles here and elsewhere online.
I think I have a proper setup. G Loomis MBR843C w/ a Daiwa TD-Z. I'll start with 12lb P-Line CXX, but I've read that fluorocarbon is also used. I don't know if fluorocarbon would give a significant advantage.
As far as the spoons, I have a few Hopkins Shorty spoons in 3/4 oz. I don't want to get all crazy, but I thought about getting a couple of Duh spoons.
Any recommendations for Duh size and color to cover cloudy and clear days? What size split ring should be used on spoons?
Finally, is it best to spoon with the rod tip down and only a few inches above the water?
Help with Jigging Spoons
Re: Help with Jigging Spoons
http://www.dobynsrods.com
Re: Help with Jigging Spoons
I think you're right to keep things simple. Any rod length is fine--as long as you know how far you move the bait when you lift. There are as many "retrieve" methods with a spoon as there are with any jig or plastic worm. Fish bite lots of retrieves. By the same token, they ignore lots of them as well. The fisherman gets to figure that out. A two foot hop or a double hop is a good place to start. Find your baseline and go from there.
For cutting down line twist, I'd put a Spro rolling swivel (#12 or 14) two or three feet up the line (depending on rod length; you don't want to crack the tip). From that swivel, use the fluoro leader, it's a little more abrasive resistant, same diameter of your main line or a bit heavier.
If you're fishing over your sonar cone--and you should be--watch the spoon fall and see how the fish react. Sometimes the fish react to the descent, and sometimes they want that directional change on the jerk. I have watched Don Iovino do nothing more that let the spoon spin as the line untwists, and catch them that way.
There's no real magic. They can be in the bait, on the edges, under it or five feet above the shad. Put in your time, look for different groups of fish at different depths. They don't all log in to the same website.
For cutting down line twist, I'd put a Spro rolling swivel (#12 or 14) two or three feet up the line (depending on rod length; you don't want to crack the tip). From that swivel, use the fluoro leader, it's a little more abrasive resistant, same diameter of your main line or a bit heavier.
If you're fishing over your sonar cone--and you should be--watch the spoon fall and see how the fish react. Sometimes the fish react to the descent, and sometimes they want that directional change on the jerk. I have watched Don Iovino do nothing more that let the spoon spin as the line untwists, and catch them that way.
There's no real magic. They can be in the bait, on the edges, under it or five feet above the shad. Put in your time, look for different groups of fish at different depths. They don't all log in to the same website.

Re: Help with Jigging Spoons
Make sure you have 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 oz Kastmasters in your arsenal. I prefer Chrome. If you can find the ones that have the white bucktail trailer, those are my favorite.
I also change out the stock hooks and replace them with VMC round bend or Gamakatsu. Keep your hooks razor sharp and check the hook points often.
Also make sure you use a fairly stiff leader below a swivel. This will minimize the foul hooking that can waste a lot of key fishing time.
When tying to the split ring, be sure your knot is on the opposite side from the gap in the split ring.
I also change out the stock hooks and replace them with VMC round bend or Gamakatsu. Keep your hooks razor sharp and check the hook points often.
Also make sure you use a fairly stiff leader below a swivel. This will minimize the foul hooking that can waste a lot of key fishing time.
When tying to the split ring, be sure your knot is on the opposite side from the gap in the split ring.
John Caulfield
Big Rock Sports- Territory Sales Manager (Norcal)
Freelance Outdoor Writer
Big Rock Sports- Territory Sales Manager (Norcal)
Freelance Outdoor Writer
Copyright © 2013-2025 WesternBass.com ®