Hate to post it, but need help on casting w/ baitcaster

[Buzzbait]

I'm hating my new baitcaster. Can't cast straight or far and I suppose you could nickname me backlash.

Any tips? I'm just about to send her back and get a nice spinning reel that makes sense to me.

I also dislike the heavy action of the pole. I can't seem to cast but a max of like 30 ft (7' MH, w/ 6.4:1 baitcaster - extreme BPS).

Can anyone help me out? Should I just send the thing back and go with what I'm comfortable with?

Damn.

[L Dub]

What kind of reel/ rod? I think it could be the rod that's affecting the distance on your cast. As far as the reel, check the brake settings and the inertial drag setting (there should be a knob on the handleside of your reel that you can turn). Adjust it when you disengage the reel, your bait should drop smooth and steady. If you're doing it over water, the bait should be able to hit the water without creating backlash.

[TrevorGuide]

one of the most simple things you can do is adjust the reel for the weight of the lure you are using. for instance, if you are throwing a heavy lure then line will be pulled out faster, and continue to be pulled out even after it hits the water. light lures can be even more difficult to cast from a beginner standpoint. i would start with a jig or spinnerbait, something that will get your line moving out. the trick is, hold you rod and reel parallel to the ground with the lure reeled to the rod tip. push the thumb bar and let the lure fall to the ground, this is WITHOUT casting the rod. the jig or spinnerbait should fall until it jently hits the ground, there should be no backlashing after it touches ground. if the lure falls too rapidly, then use the tensioner on the right side of the lure if you are right handed, it should be a small knob. finally, like the guy before said, if you have internal brakes on your reel, adjust those according to changes that might affect the lures rate of slowing down, such as casting into strong wind. ususally you want these brakes to be supplemental and set somewhere in the mid to low range of numbers ie 3,4,5 (for pro style reels i pull out only two humbs that are across from one another). hope this helps. after tuning the reel to any bait this way you should be able to put everything into your hasts without having a backlash or at least fewer of them. it's really all a matter of practice too. get out on a nice lawn and put down your baseball cap and start slinging to it - makes for a good target. Good luck!

[Buzzbait]

It's a BPS Extreme Combo.

I've messed with the drag a little, but what a mess. So much less user friendly than the good old spinner.

[TrevorGuide]

if you still have trouble you can call me and i can walk you through it

[buddy brown]

Seems like the rod is good. 7 ft. rods cast easier. The reel may be questionable. The braking system for shimano is easy to dial in. I would consider finding a shimano "green" curado or some other reel in the 130 dollar price range. Try to cast lures that are "easier" to cast like rat l traps and Sammys. When I started out, I used a lob cast similar to flinging saltwater surface irons and was gradually able roll cast, etc. Remember that if the spool is spinning faster than the lure is flying or the line is paying out you will backlash or overrun. Lighter baits will fly through air slower or in an unpredictable nature especially in the wind, which in turn requires more thumb control on the spool. rat l traps and sammys fly through the air easily and it is easier to anticipate when they will hit the water. Another thing is to match line size with the specifications of the rod. I tend use the lower end (rated 8-17) I'll use 8 lb. Also if you are using braid or flouro, these can be more challenging to cast with than straight good quality mono. Use good mono at first until you feel good about it. The most castable lure in my opinon is the lucky craft lv 500 lipless crank. Tie one of these on they are compact and fly a mile and you might stick a fish on it. Good luck to ya

[mac (Doyle McEwen)]

There is no real easy way to learn, although there are numerous tips to help you learn quicker..The only way to learn is to practice..

Make sure your tension knob is adjusted for the lure/weight you are using..As far as the internal brakes, set them for mid range or one or two sets of the weights engaged (out position)

Do not try to cast a hundred yards..Most people when first trying to learn baitcasting think you have to cast harder..In most cases you just end up with more backlashes..Start out with nice smnooth casts and move up from there once you have the short casts mastered..

Dean Sault suggests pulling off about 30 or so yards of line and placing a strip of electrical tape across the remaining line on the spool..This way, you know that any backlash you get will not go any farther into the spool..

Everyone of us that uses baitcasters still get a backlash every once in a while..It seems to happen to me mostly when casting into the wind..They happen, don't be discouraged by them..

I would also recommend using a sidearm type cast rather than an overhand type cast..Start out making short casts..Gradually increasing the effort required to increase your casting distance..

As I said, backlashes happen to everyone..If anyone tells you they never have a backlash, it is only because they are not using their gear enough to get one..When I first started, I too was getting a backlash on every cast..Eventually with practice it went to everyother cast and now I just get a couple a trip..But I still get them..Most of mine are caused by not re-adjusting the reel when a new lure is tied on and also from trying to make a longer cast and just putting too much "umph" into the cast..

mac

[Gator]

Buzzbait - lots of good advice here.

If you'd like some hands on help, let me know. I am north of Sac. PM me if you are interested.......as long as its not too far I'd be willing to meet you somewhere.

[FISH2WIN55]

The drag and the brake are different. If it is the reel I'm thinking of you should have a star drag by the handle. There should be a dial on the other side of the reel that is numbered 1-10. This is the brake. If you put this on 10 it will be the most drag possible. If it is on 10 that is why you can't cast far. Put the dial on about 6 and start there. If there is no dial then the brake in on the inside of the reel. If you take the side of the reel off you should see tiny metal prongs with small pieces of plastic on them. Adjust these until you find the right amount of brake. Hope that helps.

[g-man]

buzzbait, all of these tips are good! Practice makes perfect! Don't give up, a baitcaster is one of the best tools in fishing! Start with short casts, and work your way to longer ones! Its not a thing that you learn in a day or two! just keep going at it, you will get!

[TonyL]

All good info above !In addition-Be patient.Don't do like I did in the beginning , I avoided thos adjustments like the plague - BIG- MISTAKE ! Seems like a hassle , but you need to check/verify those adjustments for every lure. Now , I always over-adjust , that is set it up tight -ta be sure of no backlashes (by doing this you won't get the casting distance ),then make some casts , and then start backing off the adjustments little at a time , you'll then start increasing the distance .If you back off too far the birdnests will be back.Also when starting out keep an eye on the spool during the cast you'll actually see when a backlash is starting , you can simply stop it with your thumb.Hope this helps !

[Buzzbait]

Good deal guys. I'll stick with it then.

I will, however, be bringing my spinner along just in case I feel like breaking my baitcaster...LOL.

Gator-I'd love to go out on a trip. I'll PM ya.

I just got a new boat this weekend, so I think I'll probably have to go out every weekend for a few months.

Thanks all.

[bassindon69]

If the backlash happens at the start of the cast it's the break Or anti backlash. If it is at the end of the cast it's the spool tension knob.

Hmmmmmm I think thats how it goes. LOL!
You will get it. Like said, also the lure should fall slowly to the ground when you release the spool. That is a good place to start. Adjust from there.
Let us know how it works. Everyone hear will help you get there.

Don.

[Smile_n_Jax]

I have one of those combos, a 7' MH with the 7:1 reel. I only have two other rigs.

I'm still kinda new to baitcasting, so here's what I do. Tighten the tensioner until the lure almost drops. Set the drag to 10. Start out throwing sidearm. I know overhead's more accurate, but we're working on control for now. Hold the rod in front of you, parallel to the ground. Cock your wrist about 45 degrees, reach back and just sweep the rod. Don't whip it or try for a 100' cast. Learn to control your thumb pressure so you get some distance without backlash. As you get more comfortable you can lighten up the controls. Just give yourself some time.

Overhead's another story. I still can't throw it for crap, so I throw about 45 degrees off verticle. Like sidearm I can handle it and I get pretty good accuracy.

Don't give up just yet. Nobody's learned to baitcast overnight and I don't know of a reel that won't backlash without thumb control.

[StockOption]

Here is a decent link:

http://pages.infinit.net/fishing/bait101.htm

[Terry Battisti]

Buzzbait,

Lots of good info here. Don said it best, though. If the backlash is happening at the beginning of the cast, it's the centrifugal breaks. If it's happening at the end, its the spool tension.

First off, take a bait that is in the midrange (weight-wise) from what you'll be using on that setup and tie it to your line. Now, hold the rod out horizontally, put the reel in freespool and let the bait fall. You want to adjust the tension knob (the knob that is on the handle side of the reel inline with the spool) so that the bait falls on its own weight but when the bait hits the ground, the spool stops and doesn't backlash. When you have it set so the spool doesn't backlash, turn the knob tighter maybe two or three more clicks (if the adjustment clicks) or another 10 or so degrees.

Now, cast the setup.

If you are still getting backlashes, pay attention to where in the cast you're getting them. Are they at the end of the cast? Tighten the knob another click or couple degrees.

Are they at the beginning? If they're at the beginning, undo the sideplate opposite of the handle and engage two more centrifugal breaks. When you do this, make sure you're engaging break in a symmetrical way. I am not familiar with the reel you have but there will either be 4 or 6 small blocks on pins. Make sure they are engaged in a symmetrical way. If that doesn't make sense, let me know and I will take a picture and send it to you.

Now, casting technique is very important with a casting reel. Whenever you make a cast, make sure that the reel spool is vertical and NOT horizontal to the ground. This little trick will make a huge difference in casting and backlashes. Whether you are casting sidearm, overhead or whatever, this is the biggest mistake first-time users of baitcasters make.

The next suggestion is this. Go buy some cheap line and put it on your reel and practice in your yard. When you practice, have a spray bottle with you and spray the line so its wet. Wet line casts so much better than dry line. Practice every day with a casting plug or weight until you get to the point you don't backlash anymore. I did this for hours on end when I was a kid. Start out by just casting until you get to the point you don't backlash. Then go for distance. Then get so you can hit a hoola hoop at various distances. Then start screwing around with different casting angles and pitching and flipping. You see where I'm going here. I've been using a casting reel for 31 years and I still practice casting at home. Before you know it, you'll be able to put a jig in a coffee cup from 40 feet.

Buzzbait, it just takes practice and don't get discouraged. Baitcasters are by far more efficient than spinning reels it isn't funny. Once you get the hang of them, you'll wonder why you hadn't converted sooner. But, don't forget your spinning tackle. It has a major place in your arsenal.

I hope this helps you.

Terry

[Marty]

Good post and good advise – I pick up a few things!

Buzzbait, I’m sure you know this but just incase – just before your lure hits its target – push your thumb down on the spool to stop the roll of the spool.

[Fish Chris]

I've been using a "baitcaster" {can you freaking believe this ?!?!} to sling out a 3 oz pyramid weight, and a couple oz's of roe..... with 50 lb "braided line" and have not had even a hint of a backlash once yet !!!

Does this mean I'm going to switch to a baitcaster for my freshwater and / or swimbait fishing ? Are you kidding me ? Not a chance. But my point is, if a non-baitcasting guy like me can make a few decent casts with moderate weights, using braid on a baitcaster, you baitcasting pros shouldn't have any problems either.

Oh, and hey Buzzbait, I feel your pain I promise you, you couldn't be any worse off with a baitcaster than me (I have a good excuse) But anyway, like the guys before me had said.... With the right settings, and properly matched rod, and reel, and "practice" you should be able to make it work.....

But then again, in most freshwater situations, I'm not sure where a baitcaster would be much of an advantage, over spinning ? I'm only using a baitcaster, to be ready for a Sturgeon which might quite litteraly be bigger than me, and take several hours to land.... several hours of potential line twisting with a spinning reel. Almost never a consideration when fishing for "normal" species like Largemouth's, etc.

Peace,
Fish