Fishing Lines

[L Dub]

Does anyone use mono anymore? I have my baitcaster s lined with 12lb flouro (one for finesse, one for blades/ pitching and one for cranks.)

That leaves me with two spinning outfits I'm trying to decide what line to put on. For the two I want to be able to drop-shot, pitch a crank, use for finesse.

All my reels inlc. spinning have flouro on them right now, but I worry about the stiffness of the lines and I'm getting tangles when casting.

Does Fireline sink like flouro or does it float like mono? Would it be good for my spinning reels and the applications I want to use them for? I'm probably gonna try something in the 8 - 10lb range, so I think that'll help the line-memory problem. But what line to use?

[StockOption]

I use Trilene XL on both of my spinning rods.....6lb test and 10lb test. I like the limpness of this line and it tends to twist up a bit less on me compared to some of the other monofilament brands...

[L Dub]

Thanks StockOption for your input.

Thanks for all the times you've posted to my questions also.

Is Trilene flouro? I think I'm stuck on flouro now. Couldn't tell you why though. Is mono good for dropshotting?

[StockOption]

Berkley Trilene XL is monofilament.

I haven't had too many issues dropshoting with it or fishing a shakey head worm with it. However, to be fair, I typically drop shot or shakey head worm fish with InvisX flurocarbon (10# or 12# test) on my baitcaster. I recently purchased some Sunline Shooter flurocarbon and once my current InvisX spool is used up I'll be trying that out. I have had GREAT sucess with the InvisX flurocarbon line I like that line a lot.

When my sons go fishing with me they use the spinning gear and they use the Trilene XL. I've found I have A LOT less hassles having to muck with their reels due to tangles etc etc when they are spooled with the XL monofilament. They have been VERY successful drop shotting, shakey head fishing and rip fishing with this line...FWIW.

[ash]

I use SUFIX DNA a Copolymer on my spinning outfits and I use Big Game for Swimbaits and Topwater. MY old bulk spools of 10lb big game are now pretty much backing for my flurocarbon

[DeltaDan]

I have 10# Stren on my crankbait pole.
#10 Suffix Elite on the Dropshot pole.
#12 P-Line CXX on the Senko rod. (3000 yard spool of it)

Other than those-

#8 Flouro on the split shot rod (LOVE that rod/setup !!)
#20 PowerPro braid for top water buzzbaits/frog/popper plug.
#55 Braid for Jigs with a #20 floro leader.



.....Now if I can only catch a fish I will be very happy.

[Jeff C.]

L Dub,

Fireline is like braid so it should float. I haven't used Fireline much but I've used Spiderwire Fusion which is similar. I think the biggest problem in lakes around here is that Fireline and Fusion are so visible that you would lose the "stealth" approach of typical finesse tactics like dropshot. Some people tie a fluro leader onto these type of lines to eliminate that factor, but I personally hate having that extra knot in the line. Without a doubt those Superlines are a lot more sensitive than traditional mono or even flurocarbon.

I typically use Seaguar fluro on all my finess spinning setups, but am getting more and more tired of the stiffness and line twist. I wouldn't be surprised if I go back to regular mono eventually for this reason. I'm happy with fluoro for baitcasting reels, as the stiffness isn't as much a factor.

Jeff C.

[Phil]

ALL MY RODS HAVE TRILENE EITHER XL OR XT. (GREEN) LINE. FOR ME THERE IS NO OTHER LINE ! SPENT $ 1000'S THIS PAST YEAR TRYING THEM ALL.WENT BACK TO TRILENE GREEN !!!!!!

JIGS

[buddy brown]

I love the Izorline XXX in 4 lb for dshot and 6 lb for splitshot. My friend stuck a 12lb shakeyhead fish in my face on the 4 lb really strong stuff, pretty thin and limp. Izorline is the most underated line out there

[ash]

Do youself a favor before you go back to strait mono on the spinning rigs I really like the performance of Copolymer line the P-Line FluroClear in 10lb is my darthead line and the SUFIX DNA (they have changed the label) in 6 and 8lb on my dropshot splitshot. Great sensativity and abrasion resistance without the horrible stiffness.

[Jeff C.]

SOCB_Hawghunter,

Do you really think the copolymer lines like Fluroclear are an improvement over straight mono? I've never tried them but it never made sense to me that they would be an improvement. If fluroclear is flurocarbon over mono, then won't it still be as visible as mono with almost the same amount of stretch? Again, maybe I should just try it but I've been reluctant because of that way of thinking.

[ash]

Ok first There is one misnomer about flurocarbon and that is the stretch. The tests that I have seen show that flurocarbon stretches as much as mono, if you want no stretch then braid is the place.

As for the Copolymer lines they are mono with a flurocarbon coating on them. What that means is they will still absorb water,flurocarbon does not, they are coated with flurocarbon and after a while that coating IMHO wears off or down. They do not have the UV charecterstics of fluor so they will still refract light and will break down over time quicker then fluor.

The advantage is on spinning gear I am using the Copolymer on 10 lb to 4 lb, so the line size is downsized already but I have the added benefit of less abrasion and a better feel then mono without the line managment issues that I have experianced with Fluro.

The only rods that I have strait mono on these days is topwater (flurocarbon sinks) and my Swimbait. I keep a spool of 10lb mono leader for my Crigs when I want the bait to fall a little slower.

I really believe that on spinning applications the Copolymer gives me the best of two worlds and works for me. On Baitcasters I use Flurocarbon on all of my rods but the two i mentioned above.

Do yourself a favor try it out and see for yourself, I am a believer and have not (knock on wood) had line failures since I have changed to these setups (except when I dont check my line after deep crankin on lava rock)

[MrSkeeter]

This is a subject near and dear to my heart. I've tried a lot of lines and have spent a lot of $$$ in doing so ... my current thinking is this ...

Fluoro:
* on lakes, I use it for cranking (10-12#), dartheads, (6-8#), jigs (10-14#), senkos (12#), worming (10-12#) ...
* On the Delta & Clear Lake, I use it for cranking (12-14# test), pitching (12-14#) and Jigs (14-17#)

Mono:
* on lakes, almost never ... I like the sensitivity of the fluoro, swimbaits (25#)
* on Delta & Clear Lake: darthead (10-12#), topwater (12-14#), swimbaits (25#), some topwater (poppers, 12-14#).

Braid:
* on lakes, never except ...
* on Delta & Clear Lake: blades, frogs and buzzbaits, some swimbaits.

Reason I use mono on the delta and some areas of Clear Lake more is that I feel when fishing shallow, I want a little more line stretch. The sensitivity is not as great, because generally, there is not as much line out. A little line stretch for short-lining is a good thing I believe especially when you get that biggun on the other end who want to make that one last dash right at the boat!!

Also, not all lines (fluoro or nylon mono) are the same in terms of knot strength. Fluoro is notorious for being bad knot strength, so if you have a short line to the fish and he makes that one last dash, and you haven't loosen up that drag ... you could be bigger disappointment. Even some mono have poor knot strength ... I've used 6# CXX that would break at 12#'s, but have had a lot of knot failures ... Suffix and some other lines have superior knot strength.

... I digress, but if you want to know knot strength. Tie a simple overhand knot on the end of the line and pull. On a steady pull, if you can break that line, that line is suspect knot strength. If it doesn't break. Try 'snapping' the line with the overhand knot. The ones with superior knot strength, the line will not break. Thus far, I've had a sample of one or two that will not break under the 'snap' test ... that's Suffix Tritanium Plus and Elite (have not tried other Suffix lines). Most others will break on a steady pull or the snap test.

[Lancer]

DITTO !!! x 10

Well as for me i have been using the p-line floroCLEAR (co polymer not flurocarbon) ALSO man i love this stuff on spinning 6# in clear water 8-10# in dingy water and if it's dirty i go to CXX 12# cause that SH@* don't break i have pulled a few boats around trying to break it off and end up cutting it . or last resort 12# floroclear on a small baitcaster for anything just about!!

Co polymer = easy casting managability + invisibilty of fluorocarbon

floroclear FOR-EH-VERR ! - LAncer

[MrSkeeter]

[quote="SOCB_Hawghunter"]Ok first There is one misnomer about flurocarbon and that is the stretch. The tests that I have seen show that flurocarbon stretches as much as mono, if you want no stretch then braid is the place./quote]

I would have agree AND disagree. Like mono, fluoro lines run the gambit of stretchiness. It really depends on the exact fluoro that you're using. I've tried Vanish and that's just as stretchy as any mono I've used. However, if you use others ... like the Yamamoto or some Torro line, it's almost no stretch (well, much less anyway).

An you can feel the difference in sensitivity as well. Like all lines, there's tradeoffs ... pick the ones you can live with and be happy!

[Phil]

You want sensitive.GO with Trilene Sensation.........You want tough, Go with Trilene XT.......You want durability and limpness for spinning Go with trilene XL.........You want Braid, Go with Trilene Fireline.You want Florocarbon, Go with Trilene Vanish ( Now I have spent at the very least $ 1000,00 personally this past 6 months testing, using and destroying fishing line). I have tested. Seaguar, P-Line, Trilene Florocarbon.....what I have found is this. After a couple days in the sun or exposed to the elements, it all become brittle and breaks easy. All tests way below the pound rateing it is listed at..........I mean all of it ! I have ersonally lost rip and jig fish on it setting the hook....for me , I believe there are only 3 strong lines I will ever use.....Trilene XL, trilene XT, and behold Cajun RED.

Just mine and my better halfs opinion (but, try it you will see for yourself)! Take 4, 6, 8 different lines, tie one overhand knot, wet it, pull it tight very slowly, see which one breaks at what lb!) Thank you ! You will be amazed i am sure .
JIGS

[MrSkeeter]

...Take 4, 6, 8 different lines, tie one overhand knot, wet it, pull it tight very slowly, see which one breaks at what lb!) Thank you ! You will be amazed i am sure .
JIGS

Jigs,

You're getting close ... the test you mentioned above will let you know about the knot strength of the line. I dare say, just about EVERY fluoro line out there will fail this test. New or used for 6months (like some I have on my reel). But that doesn't mean that the line has become brittle. It's just saying that the line has some issues with knot strength. To combat this knot strength issue, try tying different knots. I know a lot of people tie the Palomar knot ... and it is fine for SOME lines. But for lines with knot strength issues, use different knots. I personally use the San Diego Knot or a version thereof (like the speed knot) ... In fact, I have one spool of the most inexpensive fluorocarbon line I've found (10# Cabelas Proline fluorocarbon) that I put on back in October for cranking/ripping. I've cranked/ripped with that reel nearly every trip I take since. It still hasn't become brittle. I'm still catching fish with it.

If you want really good knot strength, try some Suffix Tritanium Plus or Elite (only ones I've tested myself) .... that's some good stuff. Tritanium Plus is a bit stiff, but tough as nails. Elite is more soft and I've used 8# test for darthead fishing on my spinning outfit.

[FATGUY]

one thing that works great for me is i spool 15 lb fireline and then attach a lesser flour leader. either just tie on with a knot or a small barrell swivel .. this lets you cast great as fireline cast well and if you hang up it always breaks the leader so all you lose is the flour leader .. just my .02 bob g