Disabling surge brakes

[gomester]

95 viper, viking trailer, single axle, surge brakes. Have had at shop numerous times and nobody can figure it out. Had a new coupler with master cylinder installed,brakes have been gone through from beginning to end, lines bled, brakes adjusted, etc.
What happens is when braking at around 40 - 45 mph (slowly and easily rolling up to a stop from a distance), it is like the brakes are locking up. I can see the trailer tire shake and the entire trailer vibrates as if the brakes are just completely locking up on the trailer.

As I stated nobody can figure out how to fix this (even got a lower drop hitch to put more tongue weight on the hitch.

At this point, I just want to disable the trailer brakes easily. The boat/trailer/motor are only about maybe 2000 lbs and my vehicle has 4-wheel abs disc brakes and tows/stops it just fine. Does anybody know how to simply disable the surge brakes?

Thanks in advance.

[Vernonn]

What are the condition of the suspension springs? I wonder if your spring is broken and the brakes actuating might cause the tire to rub on the fender on one side?

-vernon

[Tom Proffitt]

Just drain the brake fluid. worked for me.

[Ceaser]

yeah drain the fluid, that is a pretty small boat for surge brakes, i can see how that would cause a problem. Sounds like there is not enough forward inertia on the trailer and the small amount of pressure is just locking them up. 2000 is a small light boat, you should be fine without those brake.

[gomester]

Well hull weight is 1350 lbs according to nadaguides.

yeah drain the fluid, that is a pretty small boat for surge brakes, i can see how that would cause a problem. Sounds like there is not enough forward inertia on the trailer and the small amount of pressure is just locking them up. 2000 is a small light boat, you should be fine without those brake.

[Mitch]

It may be the push rod from the hitch to the master cyclindar is too long or is sticking

[gomester]

Actuator/master cylinder, etc replaced and brand-new.

It may be the push rod from the hitch to the master cyclindar is too long or is sticking

[Vernonn]

Here is some info:

http://www.centrevilletrailer.com/news- ... tips.htm#4

[davet.]

Don't just drain it. The reservoir will rust immediately and reduce the value, should you decide to sell someday.
And, if you drain, you still get the back and forth slop play and you'll always get a clunk when you start and stop.
What I did was just put a small tack weld on it. Smaller than a dime. It doesn't move anymore and when I decide to repair it I can just grind off the weld. Make sure to paint the weld to prevent rust.
(95 Viper also)

[gomester]

So, did you also have this same problem then or what prompted you to weld that otherwise?
Yeah, I know you have a 95 viper as well . It was just a little out of my price range what you were asking at the time.

Don't just drain it. The reservoir will rust immediately and reduce the value, should you decide to sell someday.
And, if you drain, you still get the back and forth slop play and you'll always get a clunk when you start and stop.
What I did was just put a small tack weld on it. Smaller than a dime. It doesn't move anymore and when I decide to repair it I can just grind off the weld. Make sure to paint the weld to prevent rust.
(95 Viper also)

[davet.]

The problem with mine was, something kinked my brake line and broke the seal at the wheel cylinder and all the fluid drained out. So, every time I started from a stop, i got a "clunk". By the time I figured it out, my master cylinder reservoir was completely rusted on the inside.
The trailer place at on Sylvan road suggested they put a small weld on it, so I let them do it. No more clunk, boat stops just fine. It's been several years now.

I was asking $10k for it with a rebuilt Super Magnum (ProMax), and even dropped the price down to $8K.
Figured, screw it, It's still a good boat. I'm just gonna run it til whenever!

[gomester]

Gotcha. Well, turns out I was too late. The shop already drained the fluid. Maybe I still need to put a weld on there.

Yeah, I remember seeing your boat on the youtube videos and with everythng you had done on that motor, it was definitely a good price; I just got a deal I could not pass up on this one. Just a 150hp but a very solid motor. Not nearly as fast as yours but still gets me where I need to go .

Thanks for the suggestion(s).

The problem with mine was, something kinked my brake line and broke the seal at the wheel cylinder and all the fluid drained out. So, every time I started from a stop, i got a "clunk". By the time I figured it out, my master cylinder reservoir was completely rusted on the inside.
The trailer place at on Sylvan road suggested they put a small weld on it, so I let them do it. No more clunk, boat stops just fine. It's been several years now.

I was asking $10k for it with a rebuilt Super Magnum (ProMax), and even dropped the price down to $8K.
Figured, screw it, It's still a good boat. I'm just gonna run it til whenever!